How to Improve Skin Health with Plant Oils, Triglycerides, and Esters

With the cooler winter months upon us, skin lipids are not readily released from the pores resulting in a greater risk of skin dehydration.

So, how do we protect the skin and what cosmetic chemicals are available to us to support skin health? In this article, we review the role of plant oils, triglycerides and esters in skin improvement.

How do lipids benefit the skin?

• Lipids in skincare formulas have an emollient effect on the skin.

• They help create a breathable layer to reduce trans-epidermal water loss, which thereby boosts the hydration kept within the skin; softens the skin and may also be used to improve gloss where desired, specifically in lip balms, glosses and sticks.

Let’s first look at plant oils and how they are used in cosmetic formulations.

The most common classes of lipids used in cosmetic formulas are plant oils. These come in oil form or plant butters.

Plant Oils

• Consumers love a natural product story, and using natural plant oils can be a great addition to many types of cosmetic formulas to boost the naturalness of a cosmetic formula.
• Plant oils can contain various fatty acids, vitamins and other benefits to skincare and haircare formulas too.
• Just be careful when using plant oils, however, because they can be prone to oxidation (unsuitable changes over time), so a suitable antioxidant usually needs to be used, and they can make cosmetic formulas feel a little heavy or greasy when used in higher quantities.
• However, when mixed within a skincare formula together with triglycerides they can provide a pleasant feel without excessive oiliness. For an even lighter skin feel this can be achieved with esters.

Top 10 of the most common plant oils used in cosmetic and their benefits

Argan Oil

Source

• Argan tree kernels (Argania spinosa)

Benefits

• Rich in vitamin E, fatty acids, and antioxidants.
• It helps to moisturise, nourish, and protect the skin. It delivers anti-inflammatory properties and can improve skin elasticity.

Jojoba Oil

• Source: Jojoba plant seeds (Simmondsia chinensis)

Benefits

• Closely resembles human sebum, making it highly compatible with the skin. It provides moisturisation without clogging pores, balances oil production
• Has anti-inflammatory and healing properties as well.

Coconut Oil

• Source: Coconut meat (Cocos nucifera)

Benefits

• Contains medium-chain fatty acids that have antibacterial and antifungal properties.
• Deeply moisturises the skin, helps to repair the skin barrier, and can reduce inflammation.

Rosehip Oil

• Source: Rosehip seeds (Rosa canina)

Benefits

• High in essential fatty acids, vitamins A and C.

• It helps to hydrate, reduce scars and fine lines, and improve skin tone and texture. It is also known for its regenerative and healing properties.

Olive Oil

• Source: Olives (Olea europaea)

Benefits

• Rich in antioxidants, particularly vitamin E, and oleic acid.
• It provides deep hydration, helps to protect the skin from environmental damage, and has anti-inflammatory properties.

Almond Oil

• Source: Almond kernels (Prunus dulcis)

Benefits

• Contains vitamins E, A, and fatty acids.
• It helps to moisturise and soften the skin, reduces dark circles and puffiness, and can soothe irritated skin.

Grapeseed Oil:

• Source Grape seeds (Vitis vinifera)

Benefits

• Light and non-greasy, rich in linoleic acid and antioxidants.
• It helps to balance oil production, tighten and tone the skin, and reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks.

Avocado Oil

• Source: Avocado fruit (Persea americana)

Benefits

• Contains vitamins A, D, and E, as well as fatty acids.
• It deeply nourishes and hydrates the skin, promotes collagen production, and has anti-inflammatory properties.

Sunflower Oil

• Source: Sunflower seeds (Helianthus annuus)

Benefits

• High in vitamin E and linoleic acid.
• It helps to moisturise, protect, and soothe the skin.
• It is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties.

Marula Oil

• Source: Marula fruit kernels (Sclerocarya birrea)

Benefits

• Rich in antioxidants, vitamins C and E, and essential fatty acids.
• It hydrates and nourishes the skin, helps to reduce redness and inflammation, and protects against environmental damage.

• These plant oils are valued in cosmetics for their diverse and potent benefits, ranging from deep moisturisation and nourishment to anti-inflammatory and healing properties.

They are widely used in various skincare and haircare products to enhance skin health and appearance. However, some are also available as unadulterated pure plant oils for topical application.

Plant butters

• These are also derived from natural sources.
• Plant butters are typically semi-solid to solid at room temperature.
• They tend to add a heavier, richer and/or more emollient feel to cosmetic formulas and can be added to enhance the sensory experience.
• If you wish to purchase them to create your own body butter, just be careful as they are commonly prone to oxidation.
• Don’t be fooled into thinking plant butters should be used to help your cosmetic formulas set into a suitable viscosity!
• They are subject to climate changes far more than viscosity-modifying waxes, and when plant butters are used to set a cosmetic formula, you will often find your balm in cooler climates becomes a runny liquid when exposed to even moderate warm climatic conditions.

Top 10 of the most common plant butters used in cosmetic formulations

Shea Butter:

• Source: Shea tree nuts (Vitellaria paradoxa)

Benefits

• Rich in vitamins A and E, provides deep hydration, promotes skin elasticity, soothes irritation, and has anti-inflammatory properties.
• It is excellent for dry and damaged skin and helps to reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks.

Cocoa Butter

• Source: Cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao)

Benefits

• High in fatty acids, which help to deeply moisturise and nourish the skin.
• It also contains antioxidants that can help to improve skin elasticity, reduce the appearance of scars and stretch marks, and protect the skin from environmental damage.

Mango Butter

• Source: Mango kernels (Mangifera indica)

Benefits

• Rich in vitamins A, C, and E, and essential fatty acids.
• It deeply moisturises and nourishes the skin, helps to soothe and heal damaged skin, and can improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Kokum Butter

• Source: Kokum seeds (Garcinia indica)

Benefits

• Non-greasy and easily absorbed, it provides intense hydration and helps to regenerate skin cells.
• It is excellent for dry, cracked skin and helps to improve skin elasticity and suppleness.

Aloe Butter:

• Source: Aloe vera plant (Aloe barbadensis)

Benefits: 

• Combines aloe vera with a natural vegetable oil to create a soothing and moisturising butter. It is known for its healing and anti-inflammatory properties, making it ideal for sensitive and irritated skin.

Avocado Butter:

• Source: Avocado fruit (Persea americana)

Benefits

• Rich in vitamins A, D, and E, and essential fatty acids.
• It provides deep hydration, promotes collagen production, and helps to heal and soothe dry, damaged skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties.

Illipe Butter:

• Source: Illipe tree nuts (Shorea stenoptera)

Benefits

• Known for its long-lasting moisturising properties and ability to restore skin elasticity.
• It is excellent for dry and mature skin, helping to improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Cupuaçu Butter

• Source: Cupuaçu seeds (Theobroma grandiflorum)

Benefits

• Highly hydrating and rich in phytosterols, which help to support the skin’s elasticity and prevent moisture loss.
• It also has anti-inflammatory properties and helps to improve skin smoothness and softness.

Tucuma Butter:

• Source: Tucuma palm seeds (Astrocaryum tucuma)

Benefits: 

• Rich in lauric, myristic, and oleic acids, which help to deeply moisturise and nourish the skin.
• It also contains antioxidants that protect the skin from environmental damage and promote skin elasticity.

Murumuru Butter:

• Source: Murumuru palm seeds (Astrocaryum murumuru)

Benefits: 

• High in lauric acid, it provides excellent moisturisation and helps to restore skin elasticity.
• It is also known for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it suitable for acne-prone and irritated skin.

Plant butters are a valuable addition to cosmetic formulations, offering deep hydration, nourishment, and protection to the skin. Each butter has unique properties that cater to different skin needs, making them versatile ingredients for various skincare and haircare products.

What are triglycerides in skincare?

• Triglycerides are a type of lipid (fat) found in our blood, but they also play a significant role in skincare formulations.
• In the context of skincare, triglycerides are often derived from plant and animal fats and oils.
• They are esters composed of glycerol and three fatty acids. Commonly used triglycerides in skincare include caprylic/capric triglyceride, which is derived from coconut oil and glycerine.

Benefits of Triglycerides in Skincare

Moisturisation:

• Triglycerides act as emollients, helping to soften and smooth the skin by forming a protective barrier that prevents moisture loss.

Skin Barrier Protection:

• They help to reinforce the skin’s natural barrier, protecting it from environmental stressors and preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).

Texture and Stability:

• Triglycerides improve the texture and distribution of skincare products, making them feel more luxurious and easier to apply.
• They also help to stabilise formulations, extending the shelf life of products.

Non-comedogenic:

• Many triglycerides used in skincare, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, are non-comedogenic. As they do not clog pores, this makes them suitable for acne-prone skin.

Nourishing:

• They provide essential fatty acids that are crucial for maintaining healthy skin.
• These fatty acids help to nourish and rejuvenate the skin, promoting a more youthful appearance.

Soothing and Anti-inflammatory:

• Triglycerides have soothing properties that can help to calm irritated or sensitive skin.
• They may also have mild anti-inflammatory effects, reducing redness and swelling.

Common Sources of Triglycerides in Skincare

• Coconut Oil: Rich in caprylic/capric triglyceride, widely used for its moisturizing and nourishing properties.
• Palm Oil: Another common source of triglycerides, often used in formulations for its emollient properties.
• Safflower Oil: Contains triglycerides that are beneficial for skin hydration and barrier protection.

Triglycerides used in skincare are therefore valuable ingredients that provide moisturisation, protect the skin barrier, improve product texture, and offer nourishing benefits without clogging pores.

Their versatility and compatibility with various skin types make them a popular choice in many skincare formulations.

What are esters in skincare?

Now let’s look at esters and how they support skin health.

• Esters are chemical compounds formed by the reaction between an acid and an alcohol, with the elimination of water.
• In skincare, esters are commonly used because of their unique properties, which enhance the texture, stability, and performance of products.
• They are often derived from natural sources such as plant oils and fats but can also be synthesised.

What are the Benefits of Esters in Skincare?

Enhanced Texture and Feel:

• Esters provide a silky, smooth texture to skincare products, making them feel luxurious and pleasant on the skin. They improve the spreadability and absorption of creams and lotions.

Moisturisation:

• Like triglycerides, they act as emollients, helping to soften and hydrate the skin by forming a protective barrier that prevents moisture loss.
• This helps to maintain skin hydration and suppleness.

Non-greasy Finish:

• Unlike some oils, esters often leave a non-greasy, lightweight finish on the skin. This makes them ideal for formulations aimed at oily or combination skin types.

Stabilising Agents:

• Esters help to stabilise emulsions, ensuring that the oil and water components of a product do not separate. This contributes to the longevity and effectiveness of skincare products.

Compatibility with Active Ingredients:

• Esters can also enhance the delivery of active ingredients in skincare formulations, improving their efficacy. Esters help to dissolve and evenly distribute these actives within the product.

Reduced Sensitivity and Irritation:

• Many esters are gentle on the skin and can help to reduce the potential for irritation, making them suitable for sensitive skin types. They often have soothing properties.

What are some common Esters used in Skincare?

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride:

• Derived from coconut oil and glycerine, this ester is known for its excellent emollient properties and is commonly used in moisturisers and serums.

Isopropyl Myristate:

• Often used in lotions and creams to improve spreadability and provide a non-greasy feel. It is also known for its ability to enhance the absorption of other ingredients.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate:

• This ester provides a silky texture and acts as a solvent for active ingredients, improving their performance. It is commonly found in sunscreens and moisturising products.

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate:

• Known for its light, non-greasy feel, it is often used in facial and body moisturisers to enhance texture and skin feel.

Esters in skincare are versatile and beneficial ingredients that enhance the texture, stability, and efficacy of products.

They provide moisturisation, improve product feel, and help to deliver active ingredients more effectively. Their non-greasy finish and compatibility with sensitive skin make them a valuable addition to a wide range of skincare formulations.

As natural and sustainable ingredients are gaining consumer preference, it is useful to know how the benefits of the various actives when selecting products for your clients.